East Timor is a section of
Indonesia that used to be under Portuguese control but they pulled out in 1972. This
left Suharto, with encouragement from the CIA, free to move in and annex it, forcibly.
Since then there has been various levels of unrest on the island and the island has
been under military control for the past 25 years. With the fall of Suharto, the
unrest has became more intensified with special permission being required for anyone to
travel to the region, although the controls were loosening a bit in '96-'97.
Now you might ask, what were we thinking when we decided to land in
Dili, the capital of East Timor with no permits, having officially checked out of
Indonesia in Bali, 800 miles to the west, during a time when the whole country is up in
riots? Well, the guidebook said that Dili had some fantastic bakeries. After
not having decent bread for 5 weeks, we were willing to risk bullets and Molitov cocktails
for a decent baguette. Besides, despite the reports of riots, we had not seen any
signs of hostility anywhere along the track so far.
We pulled into Dili harbour, a very pretty if not
well protected harbour with colonial style buildings along the water front, very clean
looking, except for the navy base at the entrance. Once we had the hook down
securely, we looked up and noticed a bunch of uniformed men trying to get into a small
speed boat over near shore. It looked like something from the Keystone
Cops. Before we could get into the dink and row ashore, the boat load of
uniforms came straight to us.
We had no less than two representatives each from the
Indonesian Coast Guard, Navy, Army, Customs, Immigration, and Quarantine. 12 people
in all came aboard to check us in to Dili. Now the IP37 is a pretty good size boat
as 35 footers go, but there is definitely not seating room for 15 (16 counting the boatboy
on the speedboat). Everybody was very cordial and we managed communicate fairly with
one of the Customs officers speaking good English.
As they proceeded to inspect the boat and the crew,
there was a lot of "tsk-tsking" when it came to paperwork. Dili, was not
on our cruise permit, we did not have a special permit for East Timor, our passports
showed we had checked out of Indonesia in Bali, our Zarpe (customs clearance for the boat)
was from Larantuka to Darwin, and there were fresh riots on shore the night before.
With our best impression of American humble arrogance
we said, "Sorry about the paperwork, can we go ashore now?" Well, Customs,
Quarantine, Navy, and Coast Guard, all had no problems. Unfortunately, Immigration
and Army said NO! Not only that, Immigration was starting to make rumblings about us
being in the country illegally therefore we must be subversives. At this point I
changed tacks and said we need to take on fuel and make repairs. At that, everything
was OK. We could not leave the boat, and immigration was going to hold our passports
until we left but we could stay in the harbour over night.
The army captain that was assigned to baby-sit us let
us go ashore to take a bath in the barracks. He also "procured" some
diesel and some local food for dinner. I did notice that the diesel the army has was
of a considerably better grade than we had been getting to that point. It also cost the
most, 12 cents per liter.
We never did get our baguette.